«El Pacífico no tiene Coral»
«El Pacífico no tiene Coral” Debió llover mucho desde que Magallanes encontrara esas aguas y les diera tal nombre porque a mi me recibieron con la hostilidad de una mamá protegiendo a sus crías. Más tarde descubrí el secreto: los atardeceres ?Coral fue también la mujer que me salvó aquella noche. Basta un segundo recordando esas caras amables del camino, para ausentar la mirada y dibujar la sonrisa… Fantasear es una práctica habitual del cicloviajero. Más si cabe en una frontera con más de tres horas de espera. Entrar a un país nuevo resetea «la máquina» de los estímulos. Puede uno ser un afamado viajero, que una nueva frontera siempre traerá de vuelta la incertidumbre sobre varios aspectos: ¿será seguro?, ¿cuánto costará cada cosa? ¿cómo serán las carreteras?, ¿y su gente?…, un suspense que pese a ser atractivo nuestra mente tratará de rellenar (o prejuiciar) con informaciones de cualquier fuente, ¿pero cómo valorar sin vivir e invertir el tiempo necesario? El ocaso del sol, tan maravilloso a veces, era entonces un toque de queda anunciando que mi vulnerabilidad aumentaba. Los latidos y el pedaleo se aceleran y en la mente desaparece todo, excepto la imperiosa necesidad de encontrar un lugar «decente» para pasar la noche. aPasé dos veces un negocio de cabañas y me pare medio km más arriba: «Mierda… fff.. aquí no me van a dejar dormir gratis… es un hotel». El cielo casi totalmente oscuro y los camiones rozándome como cuchillas afiladas vencieron rápidamente el miedo a una negativa. Al ver el rostro serio de Don Heladio, el patrón, seguramente recé a tres religiones distintas, pero ¿saben qué?, volvió a pasar. Eso, que en esta forma de viajar pasa a menudo, no tiene precio. Bomberos en Costa Rica …acabar en el comedor de una família, que espontáneamente ha decidido compartir su hogar, su cena y su más preciada intimidad con un extraño, en una mesa donde el brillo de las miradas delata la emoción de un momento único; es algo que, no solo no tiene precio, sino que el turista más adinerado del mundo, nunca podrá pagar Paradójicamente, pese a ese gran tesoro, las semanas sucesivas visité más hostales de la cuenta. Hay diversas razones para que eso sucediera: una diarrea inesperada, un confort momentáneo, mi estupidez, y la búsqueda de un ambiente que había encontrado semanas antes, cuando formé parte de la familia de un hostel en Nicaragua. Quizás yo andaba entonces tras un estado anímico inapetente o tal vez es que aquel hostel de Jacó emanaba tal altivez entre sus huéspedes que acrecentaba mi alergia al turismo. Recuerdo que cuando llegué al pueblo sentí la misma calidez que una tarde en la costa de California ?.. Una sucesión de letreros luminosos atestan el boulevard por el que pedaleaba traduciendo carteles mentalmente, mientras esquivaba grupos de yankees ataviados milimétricamente con tablas de surf, rayban, y unos perfectos abdominales. Cocodrilos posando bajo el puente de la carretera principalInvertí más de un mes en Costa Rica. Luché por corroborar la crítica del viajero y por ser escéptico ante las bondades que llenan la boca de muchos turistas; y ciertamente me llevé un compendio. En Manuel Antonio giré el manillar de los altibajos y paré mi bici. Emperrado en cambiar el mal sabor de boca volví a otro hostel, con la sorpresa de que a Andrés, su dueño, no le hizo falta conocerme y me regaló dos noches con desayuno incluído. Allí me quedé una semana. Él y su gente, en su mayoría ticos, fueron el cambio de chip para seguir viendo el horizonte con las gafas correctas. Para reconocer mis propias errores y frustraciones. Para afinar la puntería en este corto regalo que es vivir: saber a quién elegir, cuándo parar, cuándo seguir. Entonces volví al «tour» gratuito que define mi viaje. La gente local; Andrés, Dani, Paulita y los atardeceres chela en mano, los pueblos menos contaminados por el humo del dolar, con doña Lourdes que me ofreció un lugar en su soda, el taller de motos de César donde por un pinchazo me quedé todo un día, don Heladio, que no lo dije pero me ofreció hasta trabajo, Gustavo, Mari Luz, las famílias de las comunidades cerca de Pavones y todas todas esas caras, que no necesito fotos para recordar.
Reflexiones «y relevantes», de un cicloviajero entre Costa Rica y Panamá
De su belleza tampoco se supo aquella tarde. El turquesa caribeño que ya conocían mis ojos agrisaba el azul del Pacífico, pero todos hablaban bien de sus playas.
«¿Y qué tendrán pues?», me preguntaba, sin ese coral?
Pasó a las afueras de Rivas, Nicaragua. En un lugar con la triste fama de varios asaltos a cicloviajeros, aquella sonriente trigueña calmó mis nervios regalándome un trocito de suelo en su restaurante.
«¿y cómo serán las que vendrán ahora?»
«Bienvenido a Costa Rica, un país no apto para cicloviajeros«.
No existía tal grosería a la entrada, pero en mi mente merodeaba una máxima ultra-repetida: «es carísimo», «una cerveza cuatro dólares» o «no he visto país más caro desde Malasia», como me contaba mi amigo Jordi semanas antes.
Para el primer presagio sobre Costa Rica me bastaron 5 minutos.
9 dólares por unos muslitos de pollo, un poco de gallo pinto (arroz con frijoles) y tres patacones con un esbozo de ensalada lo confirmaron.
Del segundo no me habían advertido tanto y sucedió al no encontrar sitio dónde dormir.
Mi plan era llegar a un pueblito y pedir en los Bomberos pero se adelantó la noche.
Vivir en Bicicleta no tiene otra razón tan determinante ni un ejemplo que lo ilustre más.
La intensidad. La empatía. La conexión.
Sobrevivir a la tensión de encontrarse solo y vulnerable en la oscuridad de un lugar incierto, a miles de km de casa, para minutos después acabar en el comedor de una família, que espontáneamente ha decidido compartir su hogar, su cena y su más preciada intimidad con un extraño, en una mesa donde las miradas, la de ellos curiosa y la mía lagrimosa, delatan la emoción de un momento único.
Y usted, turista del resort de Tamarindo, con todo el respeto, aunque quiera, jamás podrá pagar por ello.
El «hostel«, glorificado? por todo mochilero de clase alta-media es, para el que no lo conozca, un hospedaje económico (habitaciones y servicios compartidos) con un encuentro social muy interesante. Aunque en latinoamérica, eventualmente, se convierten en un certamen de postureo viajero?, donde la lengua inglesa y la ausencia de cualquier carácter latino son el rasgo principal.
El turismo en exceso genera aventuras superficiales. Miraba aquellos chicos, hablaba con unos, con otros y a menudo me los imaginaba en el avión de vuelta llevando todos las mismas fotos. Nada reprochable por cierto; para tres semanas de vacaciones al año eso sigue siendo una aventura, pero para el que viaja todo el año…probablemente es algo más vacío. Yo buscaba a Coral y no aquel tour por el que todos me preguntaban. A Coral, don Heladio, la gente, los ticos (Costarricenses), y empaparme de una esencia latina que a menudo Costa Rica parece haber vendido.
Por contra hice las mejores fotos de mi viaje. Hay una belleza incuestionable y una naturaleza que hace de esa tierra un paraje único en el planeta, aunque lamentablemente la palabra «natural» pierda mucho valor con tanta intervención del $er humano.
Tus fotos son realmente magnificos 😮 xx
Esos son los ángeles del camino
Soy tu fan!!
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